Versace
Photo source: www.style.com
- Giambattista Valli
I absolutely adore and follow RTW
seasonal collections but my heart is definitely with couture lines. The Fall
2012. Couture season in Paris despite ever growing economic crises didn't disappoint.
Bouchra Jarrar
Business smart designer
who's made precise tailoring the key aspect of her work, Jarrar called her new
collection a "continuation of the
wardrobe, of the story I've been telling since the beginning." The
collections focus is on cut, double-breasted silhouettes, emphasized shoulders
which continue to remain in trend from season to season, military buttons, fox
fur and circular scarves, sleeveless coat dresses and lovely strong women
suits. I love the comfortable look and feel of the gray suit in combination
with brown accessories and circular fox fur.
Giambattista Valli
Giambattista has absolutely
showed his mastery of couture inspired by an old Hollywood glamour. My favorites were sleeveless crocodile top which
emphasized waist and transitioned into a peplum flare over a white lace pencil
skirt.
Jean Paul Gaultier
Designer celebrated the life
of late Amy Winehouse, using her as inspiration for his couture collection with
a help of corsetry wizard Mr.Pearl. The whole collection was a big wonderful couture
mess of an excess featuring satin peignoir, pencil skirts, gorgeous lace, silk
parkas, sequins and finally parading veils.
Chanel
Karl presented all the
shades of blue you can think of in his couture collection featuring streamlined,
upbeat, tons of embroidery and forward-looking, slash pockets on dresses,
boyish attitude... this collection had that well known Chanel's boy-girl thing
going on, girls looked as comfortable in these couture pieces as men would in
sweats on Sunday afternoon.
Versace
The
focus of the Atelier Versace collection were „warrior women“ gowns with corset
waist, daring lace teasing at strategic spots hugging the curves and exaggerating
the waist, hips or shoulders, shaping the perfect hourglass figure with gold metal
inserts.
Elie Saab
Known as red carpet designer,
due to his shinny and sparkly but romantic and effortlessly floating gowns in
none intrusive pastel shades. The unprecedented strength of his gowns is the lightness;
they look and feel so light.
Dior
Bill Gayten did a wonderful,
maybe a bit reminiscent of the past collection featuring sheer layers, classic
black and white floral designs, gorgeous embroidery, splashes of sequins,
lovely contrast in between thick massive black crocodile scales and sheer floaty
fabrics.
Valentino
Designers Pier Paolo
Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri were inspired by French royalty culture and
created a collection of gentle floral print, lace embellished, sheer organza,
light, feminine, modest and delicate dresses. They were at the same time
practical, cultural but modern despite long sleeves and high necks.
All photo source: www.style.com
Photo source: http://www.allvoices.com
Fall 2012. Collections
overall announced quite a serious season, darkly romantic. The common theme was
harder age look, a lot of layering as if layers were there to build up to a
protective shield, defending women from hard and unpredictable economic times
coming up. Renaissance inspired romantic darkness was contrasted with
excessive, escapist urge of more couture pieces showed – creative double
reality for women, the one we live and the luxury, dreamy one we strive for.
CAVALLI swapped last season
mink with crocodile, there were a lot of amazing 70’s inspired pants shown and
lovely animal print sweaters. Overall, he created rather rich, powerful,
excessive and sexy collection.
PRADA presented virtual
princesses army, girls looked powerful and otherworldly, a bit like robotic
avatars. Pieces were decorated waste upwards, skirts were styled over pants,
focus was on structure, ornament and print but romanticism was still coming out
as PRADA’s signature.
FENDI designed collection
with modern amazons in mind. I really loved the iPad bags, wild orchid motive,
spring bulk power women suits – truly fashion for digital age career women.
VERSACE. Donatella was facing
her demons as she said with this collection. For me, collection was very much
“girl with a dragon tattoo like”, prime motive was byzantine cross, very Goth,
rock & roll feel. My very favorite pieces were chain dresses.
BOTTEGA VENETA’s Tomas Maier
has showed the dark side of fashion. Collection is quite shaped; peplum bottoms
were added to soften up tailored pieces with the goal to enhance the body.
MARNI showed structured
perfectly tailored pieces, some great shoes and overall quite linear
collection.
MISSONI sang ode to mother
nature with amazing natural color shade and with its signature knits by fusing
different fabrications adding innovative crystals, metallic, marble stone,
latex, leather, suede and knits in layers of colors and textures.
D&G’s collection
was inspired by romantic baroque with respect to Italian tradition and
celebration of Italy featuring embroidery over lace, beautiful floral prints, and
marzipan like shoes in a spirit of shameless earthiness. This is a “money in
the bank” collection for sure.
ARMANI reinvented his style
with gorgeous evening wear shorts and girlish looks in forcefully strong
colors.
PUCCI designed strong women
dresses showing less skin, classic and sexy with graphics expressed through
fabrics and lovely pajama print suits.
All photo source: http://www.style.com
What will you remember FW
2012. Runway season by lovelies?
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